Ruinart Dégorgement Tardif: Only in the pavilion
There is a bit of perhaps unintentional humor in the substantial art collection at 4 Rue des Crayères, a revamped property of Ruinart in Reims. You approach the entrance via the Chemin des Crayères, a...
View ArticleA singular culinary almanac replete with the warmth of treasured memory
Stuart Walton reviews Cold Kitchen: A Year of Culinary Journeys by Caroline Eden. At the end of the third chapter of her culinary almanac, Caroline Eden lets slip a careless wisdom: “It is far easier...
View ArticleAt the table: Arroz negro
When squid or cuttlefish feel threatened, they ward off their potential predator by ejecting the dark ink stored in a dedicated sac in their body, but we have another use for it, as the signature...
View ArticleWine in history: Freudian sips
In 1912, during the foundational years of the science of psychoanalysis, its leading light Sigmund Freud wrote a short essay with the unsettling title, “On the Universal Tendency to Debasement in the...
View ArticleDrink more wine!
In our current neo-prohibitionist moment, it’s hard to imagine governments organizing to promote wine consumption. And yet, that’s precisely what happened with the Drink More Wine campaign in France...
View ArticleDom Pérignon 2015 and 2006 P2: The book of Révélations
The launch of a new Dom Pérignon Vintage tends not to stint on theatricality; the chef de cave assumes the role of artistic director, impresario, showman, and, in the case of Vincent Chaperon, priest,...
View ArticleBocca di Lupo Arso 2020: The dawn of the Super-Puglian
Bocca di Lupo Arso challenges prejudices about the southern Italian region, says Sarah Marsh MW. Puglia has a reputation for overripe and jammy wines, and we want to show we can make a wine of...
View ArticleHerbert hall: Balance and focus
Margaret Rand meets Herbert Hall owner Nick Hall and winemaker Kirsty Smith. Kent, in southeast England, has always been beautiful—and it still is. But it used to look rather different: There were hop...
View Article175 years of Pol Roger: A bit British
Anthony Rose enjoys a vertical tasting of Pol Roger Vintage and Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill from the new Vinothèque range. On the news that he been voted The Drinks Business Man of the Year 2024 at...
View ArticleCognac: Journey to the water of life
We dismounted at Cognac train station; shortly afterward, we boarded a boat that carried us along the River Charente. We saw stone buildings, some with facades darkened by a mushroom-like fungus,...
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