Vinho Verde: Another green world
ALVARINHO
Soalheiro Revirado 2021 VR Minho (11% ABV)
Elevation (400m [1,300ft]) and relatively turbid juice inform the flinty Burgundian profile of this Melgaço Alvarinho (and explain its Minho VR classification). Fermented in a revolving barrel to mitigate reduction, it is restrained, taut, and twangy, with firm nectarine- and white peach-marked salinity and savory lees. Terrific mouthfeel, complexity, freshness, and length, with hints of fennel and green-tomato bite and incipient stem-ginger spice. 2024–40+. 96+
Anselmo Mendes Parcela Única 2016 DOC Vinho Verde (Monção e Melgaço; 12.5% ABV)
Fermented and aged in new 400l French oak barrels for 9 months with bâtonnage on gross lees, this single-plot Monção Alvarinho is tightly wound, with suggestions of mandarin and lime flower, a kiss of nougat oak, savory lees, and pronounced salinity to the coiled white peach and al dente apricot. Beautifully balanced, with wonderful purity and length. 2024–34. 96
Quinta da Pedra Milagres Purple Edition Alvarinho 2016 DOC Vinho Verde (Monção e Melgaço; 14% ABV) Extended bottle-aging produces a silky, even languid, Monção Alvarinho, with white-orchard-fruit-salad and hints of stem ginger. Deft use of lees preserves freshness and lends subtle savoriness. Matured in aged French oak barrels, some of which underwent malolactic fermentation; bâtonnage for 6 months. 2024–30+. 95+
Anselmo Mendes Curtimenta 2021 DOC Vinho Verde (Monção e Melgaço; 12.5% ABV)
Fermented on skins and aged with bâtonnage for nine months in used 400l French oak barrels, this impactful Monção Alvarinho cleaves pithily, tapering the trim, subtly bitter stone fruit with green-tomato and dried-herb accents. Beautifully structured, with well-integrated oak and a youthfully deliberative delivery. 2024–34+. 95+
Constantino Ramos Afluente 2022 DOC Vinho Verde (Monção e Melgaço; 12.5% ABV)
From a Melgaço vineyard at 200m (650ft), this is restrained, with tightly wound al dente apricot fruit, struck match, saline and whetstone minerality. Pillowy lees wed to lively, mouthwatering acidity make for a compelling delivery; naturally fermented and aged in seasoned 400l French oak barrels for several months on gross lees. 2024–31+. 95
Pequenos Rebentos Viagem ao Principio do Mundo Alvarinho 2020 DOC Vinho Verde (Monção e Melgaço; 13% ABV)
Foot-trodden and fermented on skins for one month, then aged in a Sherry barrel under flor for 18 months, this yellow/gold, bone-dry 1,000-bottle limited-edition Alvarinho from Melgaço has a Jura-like touch of aldehyde and smoky toast to both nose and palate, with stone fruits and flowers. Frisky, fresh-cut, green-apple acidity brings tension and twang. Lovely underlying minerality. Needs time/air to unfurl. 2024–34+. 94+
Quinta de Santiago & Nuno Mira do Ó Sou 2021 DOC Vinho Verde (Monção e Melgaço; 13.2% ABV)
From rows with, says Nuno Mira do Ó, “crazy acidity” and, with poorer soils, a touch of reduction, this early-picked Monção Alvarinho is 60:40 fermented on fine lees in stainless steel and used 400l French oak barrels, which element underwent malolactic fermentation. Poised and precise, with sluicing, oyster-shell minerality to the white peach and grapefruit palate. Finely honed, classy, and complete. 2024–32+. 94
Luis Seabra Granito Cru 2016 DOC Vinho Verde (Monção e Melgaço; 12.5% ABV)
Tangy, twangy, with just-ripe nectarine on the attack and marked salinity, this Monção Alvarinho’s silky white peach is seguing into tertiary mode, with notes of dried fruit and honey. Slinky lees and a pithy touch of grapefruit enhance mouthfeel. With persistent acidity, this retains a spring in its step. 2024–31+. 94
Quinta de Regueiro Maturado em Barricas 2019 DOC Vinho Verde (Monção e Melgaço; 13% ABV)
Elevated terraces in Melgaço produce Paulo Rodrigues’ charismatic Alvarinhos. Concentrated, well-structured, with muscular, vibrantly youthful stone fruit. Long and athletic, after 18 months in used 700l French oak barrels, the wood is well-integrated. 2024–34+. 94
Quinta do Louridal Poema Reserva 2015 DOC Vinho Verde (Monção e Melgaço; 12.9% ABV)
Pale yellow with green glints, this youthful, single-estate Melgaço Alvarinho spent 24 months on fine lees in 1,500l/3,000l vats. Complex, with petrichor minerality, the citrus-driven palate reveals ripe lemon and cusp-of-ripeness pineapple. With impressive acidity and well-integrated lees, it has lovely line and length. 2024–29. 93+
Casa do Capitão-Mor Alvarinho Sobre Lias 2020 DOC Vinho Verde (Monção e Melgaço; 12.6% ABV)
This powerful Monção Alvarinho was grown on pebbly granitic and calcareous soils. Heady lily, chamomile, hay, stem ginger, and fennel pops to the ripe, waxy stone fruits. Part-aged in barrel, where it underwent malolactic fermentation, part-fermented on skins and aged in seasoned French oak with the balance aged in stainless steel, all three components spent 31 months on fine lees, which sheath the creamy, well-balanced palate. Long and lithe, with notes of sourdough and salinity on the finish. 2024–32+. 93+
Vale Dos Ares Vinha da Coutada 2020 DOC Vinho Verde (Monção e Melgaço; 13.5% ABV)
Elevated for Monção, at 250m (820ft), this Alvarinho from a northwest-facing, 30-year-old parcel on poor granite soils is concentrated and well-structured, with firm acidity and a touch of bitterness to the pink grapefruit and just-ripe pineapple fruit. Neither oak (228l French oak barriques) nor alcohol detract from the fruit purity or minerality. 2024–30+. 93
LOUREIRO
Paço de Palmeria Royal Palmeira Loureiro 2009 VR Minho (Cávado; 12% ABV)
Bright yellow with green glints and a toasty nose and palate, with lemon curd, caraway, and curry-leaf hints, creamy white asparagus, tufa, and sourdough. Barrel-fermented and aged on the lees for 12 months in well-seasoned French oak barrels with bâtonnage, some barrels underwent malolactic fermentation. A triumph of freshness and texture, this single-estate Loureiro has aged beautifully. 2024–27+. 95+
Paço de Palmeira Royal Palmeira Eminência Loureiro 2015 Vinho Branco Portugal (Cávado; 14% ABV)
The estate’s best Loureiro imparts an impressive backbone of acidity and pithy phenolic interest, wearing the alcohol with ease. Pronounced whetstone minerality, with a creamy yet succulent, even limpid, palate, with ginger-spiced pear, pink-grapefruit peel and pith, and a “spicy” prickle of green-tomato-plant and rose-petal lift. 2024–30+. 95+
Aphros Daphne 2021 Vinho Verde DOC (Lima; 10.5% ABV)
Sourced from Vasco’s Croft’s original (inherited) estate, which is farthest inland, with shallow, poor colluvial soils. Following 14 hours skin contact it fermented in chestnut barrels and concrete “eggs” then aged on lies. Early-picked, it has terrific persistence and verve, shooting long and precise, with lifted lime blossom, crystalline minerality, and mouthwatering acidity to the intense, firmly clasped lime and quince fruit and an edge of cumin and Moroccan spices to the rapier finish. The 2011 remains in fine fettle. 2024–34+. 95
Pequenos Rebentos Loureiro Vinhas Velhas 2022 Vinho Verde DOC (12.5% ABV)
From a vineyard planted in 1989 between Ponte de Lima and Braga, the grapes for this 2,000-bottle limited-edition wine macerated for 8 hours then naturally fermented for 45 days without temperature-control and aged for 9 months on lees in seasoned barrels with bâtonnage. Initially the oak (a smokiness) detracts from the pebbly minerality, crushed cement, and florality. Dry, intense, and well-structured, it demands time in bottle. 2025–32+. 93+
Quinta do Ameal Solo Único Loureiro 2022 Vinho Verde DOC (Lima; 11.5% ABV)
Fermented and aged in concrete to maximize terroir expression it reveals a touch of bay leaf to the fresh, lemony, mineral palate. Energetic, with a serrated blade of acidity and subtle chalky/leesy mouthfeel, it has Ameal’s signature clarity and purpose. 2024–32+. 93
AVESSO
Quinta da Lixa Private Collection Colinas do Avesso 2016 DOC Vinho Verde (Amarante; 11.5% ABV)
Aged five years on lees, this ambitious single-parcel Avesso is complex and beautifully textured, with an ephemeral fleetness of foot. Gently cocooned in layers of honey, nougat, petrol, quinine, and snuffed candle, the fruit—sensations of waxy pear, firmer quince, succulent star fruit and lime—is restrained. 2024–29+. 95
Covela Avesso Reserva 2022 DOC Vinho Verde (13% ABV)
A suave Avesso from certified organic grapes, with attractively bitter almond and pear-skin traces to the soft-poached pear fruit and fresh ginger and tarragon hints. Impeccably balanced, with an undertow of persistent acidity, it naturally fermented and aged on lees in used 300l French and Austrian oak casks with occasional bâtonnage for several months. 2024–20. 94
A & D Wines Quinta de Sta Teresa Avesso 2019 DOC Vinho Verde (Baião; 13% ABV)
Sourced from certified organic vines at 180–400m (600–1,300ft), this elegant Avesso has lovely restraint and line to the white-peach fruit, with greengage bite, salinity, and subtle smokiness. Fresh acidity is skillfully balanced by creamy lees. Naturally fermented and aged in barrel for 12 months on lees with bâtonnage; bottled unfiltered. 2024–29. 93+
WHITE BLENDS
Carlos Raposo Vinhos Imperfeitos 2018 DOC Vinho Verde (12% ABV)
This ambitious unoaked Avesso, Arinto, and Loureiro blend is restrained, a touch reductive on the nose, with green tea. Elegant and pithy, with silky white peach, pronounced salinity, wet-cement minerality, and well-integrated lemony acidity, it has tremendous mouthfeel, precision, and finesse. Unoaked, it was naturally fermented and aged on the lees in stainless-steel tank. 2024–32+. 96
Quinta de San Joanne Herança 2019 DOC Vinho Verde (Amarante; 13% ABV)
Predominantly Avesso with Malvasia Fina, which brings body and a buttery, creamy, oyster milk mouthfeel to this complex, oxidative style. Notes of acacia honey, apricot kernel, and Brazil nut are cut with incisive acidity, making for a long, cleansing finish. 2024–30+. 94
Quinta de San Joanne Grande Reserva Brut Nature 2011 Vinho Verde DOC (Amarante; 12.5% ABV)
This sparkling Avesso/Arinto blend first spent four years on fine lees in stainless-steel vats, then six years bottle-aging on lees. Yellow-gold, with an attractive, high-toned edge, it is complex and flavorsome, with bruised apple, ozone, and subtle, savory, nutty, cheese-rind undertones. A charge of brisk acidity brings impressive freshness and drive. Linear, most intense. 2024–30+. 94
Sem Igual 2016 Vinho Verde DOC (Sousa; 13% ABV)
Well-exposed, south-facing slopes 40km (25 miles) inland produce this accomplished, highly consistent blend of 70% Arinto and 30% Azal. Lovely mouthfeel and balance, with ripe lemon, hints of lemon verbena, tertiary toast (it is unoaked), and creamy white asparagus. Dancing acidity prolongs the poised palate. 2024–28+. 93+
Quinta de Azevedo Torre Grande Escolha 2022 VR Minho (13.5% ABV)
This new 70/30 Alvarinho/Loureiro flagship blend from Sogrape’s restructured Cávado estate spent eight months in 500l French oak and 1,200l and 2,000l casks with weekly bâtonnage. Honeysuckle, honeyed peach, and dried stone fruits on a seductively creamy palate, with subtle oak-spice. Loureiro’s acidity makes for lovely persistence. 2024–30+. 93+
RED
Aphros Ouranus 2020 Vinho Verde DOC (Lima; 11.5% ABV)
This pale-garnet, unoaked, unfiltered Alvarelhão, fermented with 25% whole bunches, underwent one month’s skin contact. Bright with sappy acidity, red-berry fruit, fine, pithy tannins, and lifted incense, spice, and forest-floor undertones, this biodynamic red will appeal to Pinot Noir lovers in search of a serious but chillable light red. 2024–29. 93
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