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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Chambolle-Musigny
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY Domaine Ghislaine Barthod It is no longer Ghislaine at the helm here, but Clément, who has taken over from both his parents (Ghislaine Barthod and Louis Boillot). Clément says the...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Vosne-Romanée
VOSNE-ROMANÉE J&J ARCHAMBAUD Jean-Philippe Archambaud is the grandson of François Gerbet of Vosne-Romanée, whose domaine was split up for his three daughters, including Marie-Odile, who is...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Nuits-St-Georges
NUITS-ST-GEORGES DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT Winemaker Géraldine Godot remarked, “2023 was unusual for two reasons—and the first was the weather. A yo-yo year. Warm, colder, hotter, wetter… very varied during...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune Part I
PERNAND-VERGELESSES DOMAINE RAPET ET FILS Rapet green-harvested all of the reds and some of the whites, including Sous Fretille, in July and August. Robin Rapet recalls the rain in August, which...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Beaune
BEAUNE ALBERT BICHOT In addition to the six estates, Albéric Bichot has a négociant business, with grapes from about 50ha (125 acres), which they harvest themselves. The pH levels were high, although...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Pommard
POMMARD DOMAINE DU COMTE ARMAND Paul Zinetti had a long harvest of two weeks, as they were picking only in the morning. They finished in Auxey-Duresses, in the village lieu-dit of Largillas: “It was...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Volnay
VOLNAY DOMAINE DU MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE François Duvivier told me they did no green-harvest and began picking on September 5 with Fremiets and Mitans, then Cailleret straight after. The average yield...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Meursault
MEURSAULT CHÂTEAU DE MEURSAULT Stéphane Follin-Arbelet, the managing director here, recalled the last days before harvest: “There was a lot of evaporation, so some cuvées reached 13.5–14% ABV. 2023...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Monthelie and Auxey-Duresses
MONTHELIE DOMAINE CHANGARNIER Claude Changarnier’s family lived in Monthelie for several generations. I’m told a registration of birth for the first member of the family here dates back to 1610. It...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Puligny-Montrachet and St-Aubin
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET JEAN CHARTRON I started tasting with Anne-Laure Chartron, then Jean-Michel, who was initially tied up with a tractor issue, joined us later. Anne-Laure manages the vineyards and...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Chassagne-Montrachet
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET DOMAINE JEAN-MARC BLAIN-GAGNARD Jean-Marc Blain harvested September 3–9, working in the morning and in the evening from 4pm to 6pm, and found the quantities generous, but not too...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Santenay and Cheilly-lès-Maranges
SANTENAY DOMAINE PHILIPPE LE HARDI This estate, owned by French bank Crédit Agricole, has increased in quality since Jean-Philippe Archambaud took over the helm in 2019. (The name changed from Château...
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Weingut Prieler 2024: Beating a path to the elite
Terry Theise tastes the latest releases from Georg Prieler in Burgenland. One of my favorite growers (and people) whom I have watched, happily, as he emerged from his tentative beginnings and arrived...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte Chalonnaise
CÔTE CHALONNAISE—RULLY DOMAINE BELLEVILLE Rully Premier Cru La Pucelle The oak is showing on this plump Rully, which is creamy and rounded, with ripe-apricot fruit. Late-2025–28. 85–86 Rully Premier...
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2023 Burgundy: Mâconnais report and tasting notes
MÂCONNAIS I moved directly from Chablis in June 2024, to Pouilly-Fuissé, and concentrated my review on the premiers crus, which are generally very pleasing—well-balanced and not overly heavy or...
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2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Beaujolais
BEAUJOLAIS MOULIN-À-VENT CHATEAU DES JACQUES Moulin-à-Vent Clos du Grand Carquelin A coffee note on both nose and palate, which may be the oak. Plenty of red-plum fruit and spiciness combine with...
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Howell Mountain: Rounding off the rough edges
As Howell Mountain enters its fifth decade as an appellation, the reputation of Randy Dunn and his powerful Cabernet Sauvignons remains a convenient touchstone for the wine trade. But as Roger Morris...
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Ruinart Dégorgement Tardif: Only in the pavilion
There is a bit of perhaps unintentional humor in the substantial art collection at 4 Rue des Crayères, a revamped property of Ruinart in Reims. You approach the entrance via the Chemin des Crayères, a...
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A singular culinary almanac replete with the warmth of treasured memory
Stuart Walton reviews Cold Kitchen: A Year of Culinary Journeys by Caroline Eden. At the end of the third chapter of her culinary almanac, Caroline Eden lets slip a careless wisdom: “It is far easier...
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At the table: Arroz negro
When squid or cuttlefish feel threatened, they ward off their potential predator by ejecting the dark ink stored in a dedicated sac in their body, but we have another use for it, as the signature...
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